POWERHOUSE COLLECTION

Silk gauze dragon robe from China

Object No. 89/494

This is an imperial semi-formal dragon robe or jifu probably worn by an heir apparent during the Qing dynasty (1644-1911). To the Chinese, the dragon represents the dynamic force in the universe and symbolises the emperor or 'Son of Heaven'. In 1759, the Qianlong emperor of the Chinese Qing dynasty issued an edict governing court attire. The colour, decoration and style of dress was determined by the wearer's title, rank and status. According to these rites, 'apricot-yellow' was the colour reserved for the heir apparent. The robe was ornamented with nine five-clawed dragons and had four splits in the skirt. Prior to the breakdown of government control on dress regulations in the nineteenth century, only the emperor, high imperial princes and those awarded the privilege were allowed to wear five claw dragons. This semi-formal robe is made of silk gauze and embroidered with dragons worked in couched gold and silver metallic threads, each dragon playing with a flaming disc motif. The body of the robe worked in counted thread embroidery with clouds, bats, 'mountains and waves' and precious objects. The stripe border in rainbow colours is called lishui or 'standing water'. This mountain and sea represent isles of the immortals. From very early times, the search for long life and immortality was a primary concern of the Chinese. A long life was considered infinitely desirable, and old age was venerated. The ancient Chinese believed it was possible to find the secret of long life by visiting the immortals who dwelled on the Isles of the Blessed in the Eastern Sea. Immortals were believed to be endowed with great wisdom and invested with magical and supernatural powers. When the new Qing dynasty was established by the Manchu in 1644, the Manchu changed court attire of Ming tradition with Manchu style of nomadic horse riding culture. The voluminous Chinese Ming style with broad sleeves and body was replaced with tight fitting sleeves with horse cuffs and narrow body tapering to the bottom which reminds the Manchu's horse riding background. This was a particularly sensitive issue, as the Manchu who reigned during the Qing dynasty were a small group of nomadic people, ethnically distinct from the majority Han population who had ruled during the preceding Ming dynasty. Yet, the court attire still inherited certain elements of Ming tradition such as the dragon motif, twelve symbols of imperial authority and badges of rank applied to surcoats. By the time of the Song dynasty (960-1279), the dragon was well established as the symbol of the emperor and imperial power. The emperor was regarded as a semi-divine being who had the mystical power to intercede with nature on man's behalf. This reflected a wider adoption of Chinese moral, philosophical and administrative system by the new Manchu government. This robe was altered in the nineteenth century. The widening of the sleeves indicates the value of the robe to the owner.