Court dress of silk brocade
Object No. 85/2801
The robe à la française or sack-back open robe was the most popular and lasting dress style for the fashionable women in the 18th century. So named for its association with the French court at Versailles and for the loose double box pleat of drapery that falls down the back from the shoulders. The gown is slipped on like a coat and is open at the front to reveal a matching petticoat and a triangular shaped bodice piece (which covers the corset) called the stomacher. Stomachers were usually pinned or tied in place and could be in a different fabric or match the rest of the open-robe like this one. For much of the 18th century women's fashionable dress featured an exaggerated wide-hipped silhouette which displayed the beautiful and costly silk fabrics to full advantage. This dress features a cream silk fabric which has been brocaded in silver thread with a design of bows, ribbons and flowers. Enhancing its sumptuous appearance is an applied border of metallic bobbin lace. It was probably worn for grand occasions like attendance at court. Although the basic construction of the sack gown remained relatively unchanged, the design of fabrics changed yearly. The exaggerated shape was achieved by layers of foundation garments including linen stays stiffened with whalebone and a hoop shaped with insertions of cane or whalebone to create a pannier effect at the sides of the garment. At a time when baths were not a daily occurrence layers of washable linen kept the costly silks away from the skin. Accessories were an important part of the total look and would include a fan, high-heeled shoes and a powdered wig. The sack-back robe was in origin a more informal negligee gown but by the mid 1700s was worn at court and formal occasions. While women's dress changed dramatically in style in the last quarter of the 18th century these lavish panniered dresses continued to be worn as formal court dress into the early 19th century. The provenance accompanying this dress suggested it may have been worn by Lady Collingwood.
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Summary
Object Statement
Court dress, comprising open robe, petticoat, length of fabric and galloon (2), silk brocade, maker unknown, England, c. 1760
Physical Description
Sack-back open robe of white silk brocade with a silver thread pattern of bows, ribbons and flowers. It has a square neck at front with a box pleat at each side extending to a waistline that curves down slightly at centre front. A matching stomacher fills in the front panel. The back has two double box pleats at centre. The elbow length sleeves have a frill with pinked upper edge and two layers of curved, scalloped frills falling from the elbow towards the back. The skirt is open at the front, the edges falling away from the waist towards the sides of the skirt. A cream silk underskirt, ungathered, fastens with front ties and has ties spaced around the waist to secure it. The visible front panels are of silk brocade. A spare length of silk brocade accompanies the robes and two lengths of metallic lace.
DIMENSIONS
Height
1650 mm
Width
1470 mm
Depth
1220 mm
PRODUCTION
Notes
The maker of this open robe is unknown, the robe was made in England, c, 1760
HISTORY
Notes
This open robe is believed to have been worn by Lady Collingwood in the latter part of the Eighteenth Century.
SOURCE
Credit Line
Gift of Nadine Turner through the Australian Costume and Textile Society, 1985
Acquisition Date
1 October 1985
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