POWERHOUSE COLLECTION

'Red Drop' neckpiece by Liv Blavarp

Object No. 2013/1/1

The 'Red Drop' neckpiece is from the most recent jewellery range of unique pieces designed and made by one of Europe's most creative contemporary studio jewellers. Created by the Norwegian jeweller Liv Blåvarp (b.1956), it is a wonderful example to illustrate how contemporary studio jewellery made from non-precious materials can be striking and innovative in design, beautifully crafted, a pleasure to wear and perfectly able to 'lend lustre and power to the wearer even though they don't shine and glitter themselves' [like precious stones and metals]. (1) Blåvarp has made highly original, flexible necklaces, bracelets and earrings from small pieces of wood for almost 30 years. Her jewellery is worn and collected internationally, particularly in Europe and America, by those who appreciate its unique concept, elegant shapes that naturally follow the contours of the neck or wrist, and the visual impact. The extrovert scale and colours of Blåvarp's necklaces in particular and their ability to 'enclose the neck in a dramatic way' (1) and unexpectedly reconfigure on the body when worn are guaranteed to draw attention. Blåvarp has been able to transform wood, and ordinary and non-valuable material into something unexpected and special. She explains that making jewellery from wood, an eco-friendly material, allows her to work with larger volumes without them becoming too heavy. The recurring theme in her practice is sensuality (the smooth surfaces of her pieces are a pleasure to touch) and creating small sculptural forms that seem alive and functioning 'with the body'. (2) Blåvarp went through several stages in developing her forms, experimenting with material and seeking the best possible way to convey her concepts. Her earlier works resemble spirals, exotic birds with beaks and tails and she also made hybrid organic forms with nozzles, spouts and even incorporate natural whale teeth. In her more recent series she exclusively uses wooden elements which are assembled to create inner and outer structures (a form within a form) each generating its own rhythmic movement but working together as a fascinating combined whole. 'Red drop' belongs to the recent group of more streamlined and tighter pieces that are more calculated and for the first time produced in relation to precise drawings. I wanted to test the results of thinking out forms in advance.' (2) Blåvarp's colourful wooden jewellery continues to draw attention in exhibitions, to be awarded ('Red Drop' won Bayerischer Staatpreis in 2012) and admired by long-term and new admires. As one fan of Blåvarp jewellery put it: '...I absolutely love [her necklaces].... I never knew that I would want to wear wood'. (3) Eva Czernis-Ryl, 2012 1. L den Besten, 'On Jewellery A Compendium of International Contemporary Art Jewellery', 2011 2. R Ziegler, 'Touch wood', Norwegian Crafts, issue 2 (8 May), 2012; http://www.norwegiancrafts.no/issues/02-2012/touch-wood/ (accessed 20 November 2012) 3. 'On Jewels: An Appreciation of the Art', April 23, 2007; http://onjewels.typepad.com/on_jewels_an_appreciation/2007/04/liv_blvarp.html (accessed 20 November 2012)