POWERHOUSE COLLECTION

'Luna Park' dress by Jenny Kee

Object No. 2008/116/1

Australian fashion designer, Jenny Kee, designed this knitted 'Luna Park' dress around 1980 for her fashion label, Flamingo Park. Its bold design is characteristic of Kee's knits, whose bright colours and Australian motifs gave them enormous appeal. In the mid 1970s Jenny Kee began to forge a unique vision of Australian dress, one that didn't look to the trend-driven fashion mainstream for inspiration but drew on Australia's cultural and natural landscape and the art of Indigenous Australians. It was not a purist expression of Australian identity, but one that melded an eclectic assortment of elements drawn from colour theory, art history, theatre, Chinese opera, Buddhism, European haute couture and the dress and textiles of other cultural and indigenous groups. Her work was never simply an enthusiastic sourcing of ingredients from a local and global supermarket of styles, but drew on emotional, spiritual and aesthetic responses to the causes and communities that inspired her, and that she in turn supported. Jenny Kee studied fashion design and worked as a model before leaving Australia in 1965 for 'Swinging London', where she met up with a coterie of other young expats, dubbed by the local press the 'Downundergrounders'. She returned to Australia in 1972 and opened her Flamingo Park 'frock salon' in Sydney in 1973. With its mix of art, retro kitsch and original clothing, knitwear and textile designs by Kee and her friend and fellow designer Linda Jackson, Flamingo Park became an artistic hub and held sensational fashion events, dubbed the Flamingo Follies parades, each year. In the early 1980s Jenny Kee and Linda Jackson decided to pursue different directions. Kee continued to design for Flamingo Park and later opened her Jenny Kee shop, while Jackson visited central Australia and the Indigenous community at Utopia Station and returned to Sydney to establish her 'Bush Couture' label. Kee has given the Museum her extensive personal archive, including artwork, scrapbooks, media clippings, photographs, videos and business records. In acquiring the collection, the Museum recognised not only her significant contribution to Australian fashion, craft and design, but also the impact that shifts in Australia's cultural and political climate had on her work. Glynis Jones, Curator, 2007

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Summary

Object Statement

Dress, 'Luna Park', womens, wool, designed by Jenny Kee, handknitted by Jan Ayres, for Flamingo Park, Sydney, New South Wales, Australia, 1980

Physical Description

A sleeveless, knee-length dress knitted in multicoloured wool. The front of the dress depicts the entry to Luna Park with a smiling face and sun-ray hairline. The back depicts the Park's Art Deco columns; between the columns is an angular panel decorated with green, red and yellow dots and the words 'Just for fun'.

DIMENSIONS

Width

720 mm

Depth

25 mm

PRODUCTION

Notes

Australian fashion designer Jenny Kee designed this Luna Park dress around 1980 for her label, Flamingo Park, which gained enormous appeal for its printed textiles and knitted garments. In 1974 Kee met experienced hand-knitter Jan Ayres and appointed her to produce a new knitwear range designed by Kee. Ayres worked for Flamingo Park for several years and made this and many other knitted items. Born in Bondi, Jenny Kee studied fashion design and worked as a model before leaving Australia in 1965 for 'Swinging London', where she made the most of the creative maelstrom and met up with a coterie of other young expats, dubbed by the local press the 'Downundergrounders'. Kee landed a job with another expatriate Australian, Vern Lambert, working on his clothing stall at the Chelsea Antique market. 'I called it the School of Fashion in Life - my training ground', she recalled.' It was like working in a museum but we wore the clothes. I wore a torn Fortuny dress as a scarf. We sold Poiret, Mainbocher, Schiaparelli.' [National Trust Quarterly Feb 1994, page 18.] In 1972 Kee returned to Australia for what she believed would be a brief visit to attend the opening of an exhibition of husband Michael Ramsden's artwork. Instead they found the creative climate so changed and charged with possibilities they decided to stay. 'I was thinking London's not so exciting any more. We'd gone through the 60s. It wasn't fabulous or buzzy any more, and I could feel all this energy happening here.' [Interview with Powerhouse Museum Curator Glynis Jones, 1994] In 1973 Kee opened her Flamingo Park 'frock salon' in Sydney's Strand Arcade (with a $5000 loan 'dribbled out' by her father). With its mix of art, retro kitsch and original clothing, knitwear and textile designs by Kee and her friend and fellow designer Linda Jackson, Flamingo Park became an artistic hub, drawing creative people from different fields to collaborate on the design of outfits and accessories and take part in what were reported as Sydney's most sensational fashion events, the annual Flamingo Follies parades. Kee was determined to acknowledge and celebrate Australia's unique environment in her work. In 1974, with Flamingo Park's first winter season looming, she decided to create a garment that was distinctly Australian, combining wool ('our greatest export'), the traditional craft of knitting, and 'purely Australian imagery' [Kee papers in Powerhouse Museum, notes to Curator Jane de Teliga about 1992]. These first knits, inspired by garments popular in the 1950s, were zipper-fronted cardigans featuring simple kookaburra, kangaroo and koala motifs. They were soon in great demand. In 1982 the Princess of Wales was seen sporting a 'Blinky Bill' koala jumper (a wedding present from NSW Premier Neville Wran's daughter Kim). The museum's Kee archive also includes a slightly altered version entitled 'Blinky Di'; this was offered as a pattern to Australian Women's Weekly readers and reflects the way Kee's work ranged from one-off 'art clothes' to broadly commercial applications. Flamingo Park's winter collection received a full page report in the Daily Telegraph announcing 'There's a new Nationalism taking over the Australian fashion industry. Imported goods are strictly taboo on the fashion front. Now the industry is swinging to the tune of Advance Australia Fair and fashion conscious shoppers are snapping up clothes that herald a true blue fashion' [24 November 1974].

HISTORY

Notes

The donor received this Flamingo Park dress from a friend.

SOURCE

Credit Line

Gift of Terry Fitzgerald, 2008

Acquisition Date

4 June 2008

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