POWERHOUSE COLLECTION

Womens sundress by Cole of California

Object No. 2006/85/1

This dress was made by Cole of California, a popular label begun by silent film actor Fred Cole in the 1920s. Finding the manufacture of underwear boring, he formed Cole of California from the family knitwear firm in Los Angeles in 1923. By 1925 Fred had created a swimsuit line that was innovative in design and received much public acclaim. For over three decades, Cole of California designs including the backless, strapless swimsuit, the short overskirt, the boy short, the first true tank suit and the cover-up skirt, revolutionised the swimwear industry. Fred Cole's background as an actor in silent films significantly influenced his designs. Cole of California designs conveyed Hollywood panache and glamour. He took his inspiration from the rich and famous and designed mass-market garments that had an opulent look but were priced within reach of those with moderate incomes. His designs were often flamboyant, theatrical and mimicked fashion worn by the screen goddesses. This fashion appealed to a population that was enamoured by screen idols and life as depicted in the movies. Cole's signing in 1936 of the ingenious designer Margit Fellegi, who was likened to the iconic theatrical designer Edith Head, translated Cole's ideas into reality. Cole knew that sex appeal would sell swimwear and began a successful public relations campaign that saw contract players or starlets appearing poolside or on the beach in a Cole swimsuit. Cole of California set the standard for recreational swimwear by connecting fashion and swimwear. The public found Cole's promotion of a sun-drenched healthy Californian lifestyle linked to the movies as irresistible. The allure of Hollywood is evidenced in this garment, with its cheongsam styling that emphasises the female silhouette and its use of flamboyant oriental print and bronze capri pants. In 1950, film and swimming star Esther Williams became the official face of the Cole of California advertising campaign, and this garment could easily have been featured in one of her movies. The Chinese design elements of this hybrid garment incorporate a style that gained popularity during the 1950s with other noted Western designers such as Dior and Balenciaga. Cole of California has infused into the design a contemporary edge with the very feminine silhouette of the halterneck cheongsam (qipao) style sundress and capri pants to create a garment reminiscent of Hollywood glamour, a subtle sexiness and a relaxed affluent lifestyle. The cheongsam's origins are of a political nature and began when Manchu rulers arrived in China in the 1600s. All Han Chinese were organised into "banners" (qi) and were called "banner people" (qiuen). The banner people were forced to adopt a standardised style of dress to mark their conquered status. The original cheongsam (meaning long dress) was a one-piece long-sleeved garment that covered the body from neck to instep. The dress worn by the women was known as "qipao" or "banner dress". Today the qipao refers to the female version of the cheongsam. The 1911 Revolution toppled the rule of the Qing (Manchu) dynasty, but the qipao and its charm have endured. The look of the modern cheongsam (qipao) - in contrast to the traditional qipaos which were shapeless and designed to conceal the figure - was popularised in early 20th century Shanghai. The 1949 Communist Revolution and the mandatory Mao Suit saw teh demise of the cheongsam in Shanghai. The cheongsam (qipao) survived and flourished through the Shangaiese emigrants and refugees who made their home in Hong Kong. The modern cheongsam (qipao) features the mandarin collar; decorative piping, trim and luxurious fabrics: flattering to the female form; graceful and elegant and is suitable for both informal and formal occasions. Western fashion influences by noted designers such as Christian Dior, Versace, Ralph Lauren, John Galliano and others, have integrated some aspects of qipao elements into their designs. With increasing awareness of Chinese culture, there is a renewed interest in qipao especially among younger women. This garment complements the Museum's holdings both of traditional cheongsams, as an example of contemporary innovation on a traditional style, and of Cole of California swimwear.

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Summary

Object Statement

Sundress, womens, cotton / textile / metal, by Cole of California, United States of America, c. 1952

Physical Description

Dress, qipao or cheongsam style, women's, cotton, made by Cole of California, United States of America, c. 1952 Women's hybrid outfit of sundress and capri pants, styled on the Chinese cheongsam (qipao) by Cole of California in the 1950s. Halterneck design with tight fitting mandarin collar and button fastening with red piping around the neckline. Tight fitting at waistline with shirred sides to the waist and two deep side splits to the waistline. Boning and stiffening in bodice. Fabric is printed with an oriental print in gold, red and cream with a short zip to the waist at the back of the dress. Attached to the dress at the waist is a pair of gold capri pants with side zip. Maker's mark on label.

DIMENSIONS

Width

745 mm

PRODUCTION

Notes

The donor related anecdotally that she had a friend who was employed in the early 1950s to work at the Cole of California factory in Bathurst sewing on buttons. More research needed to verify Australian connection with Cole of California.

HISTORY

Notes

The donor purchased the garment in the early 1950s while employed at Snow's retail store, corner of Pitt and Liverpool Streets, Sydney. She was employed at Snow's from 1947 to 1957. The donor recalls that Mr John Snow, the son of Sir Sydney Snow, was instrumental in bringing the Cole range of swimwear and sundresses to Australia. The donor relates anecdotally that her friend worked for a short time in the early 1950s at Cole of California in Bathurst, sewing shoulder straps on swimwear, but that she parted company from Cole's very quickly as she couldn't sew the straps on straight. More research needed for information related to Cole of California operating a factory in Bathurst.

SOURCE

Credit Line

Gift of Ms Xeny C Hearne, 2006

Acquisition Date

4 July 2006

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