POWERHOUSE COLLECTION

Screen printed polyester satin dress by Studibaker Hawk

Object No. 2004/146/2

This dress, designed and made in the 1980s by Sydney based fashion label Studibaker Hawk documents the work of one of Australia's most enduring and successful evening, school formal and special occasion labels. Established by Janelle Smith, David Miles and Wendy Arnold in 1982 the distinctive Studibaker Hawk signature dress with it's original textile prints and sculptural silhouette became one of the 1980s most sought after 'party frocks' ; it's bold extravagant style reflecting the optimistic, prosperous economic and social mood of Australia at the time. The 1970s and 1980s saw the rise of a new generation of Australian fashion designers creating garments that melded art, craft and fashion in a style that came to be dubbed 'art-clothes'. Influenced by the Punk subcultures attitude to style and materials, allied with a passion for creating original fabrics and textiles and a market who was willing to dress up and be noticed, designers like Jenny Kee, Linda Jackson, Katie Pye and Jenny Bannister flourished. Studibaker Hawk came out of this highly original and very labour intensive practice but focussed on expanding their label into a commercially successful business with a high fashion profile. Recognition of the labels popularity came in 1985 when they won the top award in the PM Wear category at the Australian Fashion Awards. The 1990s ushered in a quite different mood in fashion with an economic downturn and recession resulting in decreased spending on clothing, a move away from conspicuous dressing and a more segmented, dressed-down market with a preference for uncomplicated investment dressing. Faced with such a dramatic change in the fashion mood Smith, Miles and Arnold carefully reassessed their design signature and the operation and marketing of the label. A new business plan was put into operation and Smith developed a whole new look for their fashion ranges. With hand printed textiles and flamboyant silhouettes no longer popular their focus moved to well cut, elegant, classic designs aimed at the school formal, bridal and evening wear market. Glynis Jones, Curator

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Summary

Object Statement

Dress, womens, polyester satin / polyester / metal, designed and made by Janelle Smith / David Miles / Wendy Arnold of Studibaker Hawk, Sydney, New South Wales, Australia, 1984-1990

Physical Description

Dress, womens, screen printed polyester / polyester satin / metal, designed and made by Janelle Smith, David Miles and Wendy Arnold for their label Studibaker Hawk, Sydney, New South Wales, Australia, 1984 - 1990. Women's 'party' dress in black polyester screen printed in tones of metallic pink, purple and gold inks with abstract peacock design. Dress features a strapless, fitted, boned and lined bodice with sweetheart neckline and pointed waist. The skirt joins the bodice at the pointed waist which is highly gathered, creating a very full layered skirt. The below knee length skirt comprises three layers - a wired underskirt of plain black polyester satin over which is an asymmetrical skirt of black tulle with a double flounced hem. The outer layer of the skirt features an asymmetrical skirt of screen printed black satin with a wired hem. Dress fastens with a black zipper at centre back.

DIMENSIONS

Height

1070 mm

Diameter

660 mm

PRODUCTION

Notes

Studibaker Hawk was established in Sydney in 1982 by Janelle Smith, David Miles and Wendy Arnold. Initially working from a small studio set up all three were involved in designing, screen printing the textiles and making the garments. Wholesaling from their studio, Smith and Arnold would model the designs for buyers. As demand increased and they employed more staff, their roles became more defined with Smith responsible for garment design and production, Arnold concentrating on print design and production and Miles looking after the business and finance. During the 1980s Studibaker Hawk developed a distinctive signature party dress combining original textile designs (often in metallic based inks) with extravagant sculptural silhouettes. Production was highly labour intensive with rolls of fabric screen printed by hand and heat set in tumble dryers. The construction of each dress involved metres of sceenprinted fabric cut into layered flounces with padded and wired hems. Wendy Arnold designed the textile print. The dresses silhouette with it's strapless elongated fitted bodice and full, layered skirt was developed by Janelle Smith and became their most popular style. Smith noted that her work was inspired by 1940s and 1950s fashion, the glamorous full skirted evening gowns of Christian Dior and bustled and corsetted Victorian silhouettes. In contrast she also cites London's Punk scene (which she experienced first hand while in London in the late 1970s) as an influence; freeing up her notions of dress design, construction and materials.

SOURCE

Credit Line

Gift of Studibaker, 2004

Acquisition Date

27 October 2004

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