POWERHOUSE COLLECTION

Hessian boot by Gundry & Sons

Object No. H4448-516

This pair of Hessian boots made as prize work to demonstrate the skill of the shoemaker and identification, come from an important collection of footwear and shoemaking objects thought to have been initiated by the London shoemaker, Robert Dixon Box, and consolidated by his son, Joseph Box and the Box Kingham family during the second half of the 1800s. The collection ranges from remnants of leather shoes from the Middle Ages found in English archaeological sites, to intact European shoes from the 1600s onwards, 'foreign' shoes collected as 'curiosities' from around the world, shoe buckles, spurs and snuff boxes, as well as company documents relating to Joseph Box Ltd. The Joseph Box shoe company was an important London shoemaking business established in 1808 by a 'ladies shoemaker' called James Sly. From 1816 Sly's apprentice was Robert Dixon Box, the fifteen-year-old son of a bankrupted Quaker attorney. Box became manager of the business when Sly died in 1826, subsequently attaining a reputation for fine shoemaking through participation at international exhibitions and by obtaining Royal Warrants. The business became known as Joseph Box Ltd in 1862 after it was transferred to Robert's son, Joseph. Like his father, Joseph started in the trade at the age of 15, but retired at the relatively early age of 42 to enable his daughters to enter society. Although he transferred the business to his cousins the Box Kinghams in 1882, Joseph maintained an active interest in shoemaking through collecting. Some of the shoes in the collection feature a remarkable 20 stitches to the centimetre exemplifying the attention to detail and quality of workmanship Joseph Box shoes became renowned for. At the end of the century the business was later taken over by royal shoemakers Gundry & Sons, which was itself taken over by John Lobb Ltd some time after 1953. The Joseph Box collection provides a unique insight into footwear history, demonstrating how changes in contemporary attitudes, needs and etiquette directly affected shoe design. It also reveals the fine skills of shoemakers as well as the impact of scientific developments and technological innovations on the materials and construction methods. Reference: Mitchell, Louise, with Lindie Ward, 'Stepping out: three centuries of shoes', Powerhouse Publishing, Sydney, 1997

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Summary

Object Statement

Hessian boot with identification tag, part of Joseph Box collection, mens, prize work, leather / paper, by Gundry & Sons, London, England, 1850

Physical Description

Hessian boot, mens, mens, leather, and identification tag, paper, made by Gundry & Sons, prize work, London, England / unknown, 1850 / date unknown Mens single straight Hessian style knee boot of welted construction with narrow square rounded toe and stacked heel. Boot consists of a black patent leather upper featuring a golosh which is extended at the back, leg with scalloped backstrap, pointed tongue, vertical side seams over breast and no back seam, upper top cut higher at the front and white beading at the front. Upper decorated with a scroll design at centre back of golosh, leaf design on the top edge with a crown and wreath below. Upper lined in white leather and features braid loops to pull on. Leather heel features a steel spur box in the back and leather sole features a cream forepart, black edge top finish, a ridged brown waist and is crow wheeled. Paper identification tag with text, handwritten in ink, number and description of boot on the obverse and a history and provenance on the reverse, origin and date unknown.

PRODUCTION

Notes

This Hessian boot is described in the 1965 Box collection list as: 'flat seam particularly good. Building of heel and sewing of seam are excellent. Spur box well fitted. Made by Gundry & Sons, Soho Square, as a specimen,1850'. Specimen or prize work was not meant to be worn or fashionable but displayed to demonstrate the skill of the shoemaker.

HISTORY

Notes

This Hessian boot made as prize work in 1850 and identification tag, is part of the Museum's significant Joseph Box collection. Joseph Box Ltd had its origins in a London shoemaking business established in 1808 by a 'ladies shoemaker' called James Sly. From 1816 Sly's apprentice was Robert Dixon Box, the fifteen-year-old son of a bankrupted Quaker attorney. Box was to become manager of the business when Sly died in 1826, and gained a reputation for fine shoemaking through its participation at international exhibitions and by obtaining Royal Warrants. The business became known as Joseph Box Ltd in 1862 after it was transferred to Robert's son, Joseph. Like his father, Joseph started in the trade at the age of 15, but retired at the relatively early age of 42 to enable his daughters to enter society. Although he transferred the business to his cousins the Box Kinghams in 1882, Joseph maintained an active interest in shoemaking through collecting. At the end of the century the business was later taken over by royal shoemakers Gundry & Sons, which was itself taken over by John Lobb Ltd some time after 1953. The collection acquired by the Museum in 1942 was probably started by Robert Dixon and consolidated by Joseph Box and the Box Kinghams during the second half of the 1800s. It includes remnants of leather shoes from the Middle Ages found in English archaeological sites, intact European shoes from the 1600s onwards, 'foreign' shoes collected as 'curiosities' from around the world, shoe buckles and spurs, as well as documents relating to Joseph Box Ltd. Footwear scholar, June Swann, former Keeper of the Boot and Shoe Collection at the Northampton Museum in England was invited to catalogue this very significant collection in 1993. A large selection was subsequently featured in the Museum's 1997 exhibition and accompanying publication 'Stepping out: three centuries of shoes'. REF: Mitchell, Louise, with Lindie Ward, 'Stepping out: three centuries of shoes', Powerhouse Publishing, Sydney, 1997

SOURCE

Acquisition Date

2 April 1942

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