Balmoral boot by Menhennitt
Object No. H4448-507
This Balmoral boot made as prize work to demonstrate the shoemaker's skill, comes from an important collection of footwear and shoemaking objects thought to have been initiated by the London shoemaker, Robert Dixon Box, and consolidated by his son, Joseph Box and the Box Kingham family during the second half of the 1800s. Early museum documentation states ' the heel is remarkable for the number and regularity of the lifts.The buttonholes are beautifully worked'. The collection ranges from remnants of leather shoes from the Middle Ages found in English archaeological sites, to intact European shoes from the 1600s onwards, 'foreign' shoes collected as 'curiosities' from around the world, shoe buckles, spurs and snuff boxes, as well as company documents relating to Joseph Box Ltd. The Joseph Box shoe company was an important London shoemaking business established in 1808 by a 'ladies shoemaker' called James Sly. From 1816 Sly's apprentice was Robert Dixon Box, the fifteen-year-old son of a bankrupted Quaker attorney. Box became manager of the business when Sly died in 1826, subsequently attaining a reputation for fine shoemaking through participation at international exhibitions and by obtaining Royal Warrants. The business became known as Joseph Box Ltd in 1862 after it was transferred to Robert's son, Joseph. Like his father, Joseph started in the trade at the age of 15, but retired at the relatively early age of 42 to enable his daughters to enter society. Although he transferred the business to his cousins the Box Kinghams in 1882, Joseph maintained an active interest in shoemaking through collecting. Some of the shoes in the collection feature a remarkable 20 stitches to the centimetre exemplifying the attention to detail and quality of workmanship Joseph Box shoes became renowned for. At the end of the century the business was later taken over by royal shoemakers Gundry & Sons, which was itself taken over by John Lobb Ltd some time after 1953. The Joseph Box collection provides a unique insight into footwear history, demonstrating how changes in contemporary attitudes, needs and etiquette directly affected shoe design. It also reveals the fine skills of shoemakers as well as the impact of scientific developments and technological innovations on the materials and construction methods. Reference: Mitchell, Louise, with Lindie Ward, 'Stepping out: three centuries of shoes', Powerhouse Publishing, Sydney, 1997
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Summary
Object Statement
Balmoral boot, part of Josph Box collection, womens, left foot, prize work, leather / silk / timber / celluloid, by Sandy McCarthey for Menhennitt, London, England, c. 1885
Physical Description
Balmoral boot, womens, leather / silk satin / wood, made by Sandy McCarthey for Menhennitt, exhibition / prize work, London, England, [1885] Womens single left six button ankle boot (Balmoral), on original last, of welted construction with square toes, rounded edges and stacked heel. Boot consists of black patent leather galosh and two piece pale blue silk satin leg featuring toe with peaked cap, white piped back seam and top edge of full galosh, white stitched centre front and back seams of leg and blue kid edge binding, six white buttons and hand worked button holes. Decoration features scalloped stitching on the cap, punching with white underlay at cap and throat and top edge finished with fleur de lis and scrolls. Upper features pink leather facing, the rest not visible because of the last. Black leather heel features full lifts, fine wheeling at the seat and a nailed (originally blinded) top piece. Leather sole is made straight with a narrow waist featuring a French shank.
DIMENSIONS
Height
145 mm
Width
50 mm
PRODUCTION
Notes
The 1965 Box collection list says 'Sandy McCarthey worked for Menhennitt, London, prestigious bootmaker at the time.' Prize work made for exhibitions run by 'St Crispins' (a shoemaking magazine 1869-76) or for the Leather Trades Exhibition, Northampton, 1873. H Menhennitt was located at 62 Castle Street East, near Oxford Street, London from 1885-1891.
HISTORY
Notes
This Balmoral boot made in around [1885] by Sandy McCarthy who worked for shoemaker, Menhennitt as exhibition work. It is part of the significant Joseph Box collection. Joseph Box Ltd had its origins in a London shoemaking business established in 1808 by a 'ladies shoemaker' called James Sly. From 1816 Sly's apprentice was Robert Dixon Box, the fifteen-year-old son of a bankrupted Quaker attorney. Box was to become manager of the business when Sly died in 1826, and gained a reputation for fine shoemaking through its participation at international exhibitions and by obtaining Royal Warrants. The business became known as Joseph Box Ltd in 1862 after it was transferred to Robert's son, Joseph. Like his father, Joseph started in the trade at the age of 15, but retired at the relatively early age of 42 to enable his daughters to enter society. Although he transferred the business to his cousins the Box Kinghams in 1882, Joseph maintained an active interest in shoemaking through collecting. At the end of the century the business was later taken over by royal shoemakers Gundry & Sons, which was itself taken over by John Lobb Ltd some time after 1953. The collection acquired by the Museum in 1942 was probably started by Robert Dixon and consolidated by Joseph Box and the Box Kinghams during the second half of the 1800s. It includes remnants of leather shoes from the Middle Ages found in English archaeological sites, intact European shoes from the 1600s onwards, 'foreign' shoes collected as 'curiosities' from around the world, shoe buckles and spurs, as well as documents relating to Joseph Box Ltd. Footwear scholar, June Swann, former Keeper of the Boot and Shoe Collection at the Northampton Museum in England was invited to catalogue this very significant collection in 1993. A large selection was subsequently featured in the Museum's 1997 exhibition and accompanying publication 'Stepping out: three centuries of shoes'. REF: Mitchell, Louise, with Lindie Ward, 'Stepping out: three centuries of shoes', Powerhouse Publishing, Sydney, 1997
SOURCE
Acquisition Date
2 April 1942
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