POWERHOUSE COLLECTION

Womens evening dress

Object No. A8072

Although little provenance exists for this silk evening dress, it remains an excellent example of the changing roles of men and women in Australia during the 1840s. The women during this decade presented an air of fragility, an air of submission and dependence and her clothes, with tight corsetry and the weight of numerous petticoats, certainly restricted her day-to-day activities. This restrained line of the dress is characteristic of Victorian fashion and indicates the passive roles women played during the period. The dress is made of a silk tartan, a fabric popularised by Queen Victoria. The 1840s were a decade of very pretty clothes, without the flamboyance of the 1830s or the over-ornamentation that was to follow in the 1850s. The tight pointed bodice, fitted sleeves, sloping shoulder line and full skirt art typical features associated with women's dress from the mid-1800s. The sleeves were often cut on the bias, piping and serpentine trimmings being used to define all the main constructional and decorative seams. Hand-bags and reticules were replaced with pockets, which were let into one of the side-back seams of the skirt. Distinctive to the decade was the emphasis on the 'V' line, which accentuated the woman's waist. The lower, off-the-shoulder décollages were a definitive indicator of female evening wear, in sharp contrast to their demure and covered up day dress. This silk dress is beautifully made and finished using high quality fabric. It is an excellent example of an evening dress worn in the 1840s and compliments additional holdings in the Museum's colonial dress collection, giving insight into the design, manufacture and fashion of the period. A similar tartan patterned skirt, complete with bias cut folds along the centre and fabric covered buttons, has been found in the collection of the Tongarra Museum, Albion Park further indicating the popularity of the style. References: Nancy Bradfield, 'Costume in Detail 1730-1930.' Marion Fletcher, 'Costume in Australia 1788-1901.' Margaret Maynard, 'Fashioned from Penury.' Jade Kanas, curatorial intern, December 2015.

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Summary

Object Statement

Evening dress, womens, silk / brass, maker unknown, probably made in Australia, c. 1845

Physical Description

Evening dress of blue, cream, brown and mauve plaid silk. The corsage features a wide round neck, short sleeves and pointed waistline. Flat, V-shaped pleats taper down from the shoulder to the waistline of the front bodice. The fitted sleeves are cut on the bias, and decorated with serpentine trim. The full skirt is gathered at the waist by cartridge pleats and attached to the bodice via thin piping. The central panel of the skirt is trimmed lengthways by floating pleats and braiding. Twelve matching blue buttons, covered in the same tartan fabric are dispersed down the centre front of the skirt. Further piping trims the neckline and shoulder sleeve edge. A pocket has been let into seam on right hand front skirt. Protective braid in matching blue fabric just below hemline. Back fastening down the back of bodice with 11 brass hooks and eyes (2 hooks and 1 eyelet missing). The upper hooks have been moved, and the brass hook and top eyelet resewn. The central bodice bone is missing. Fully lined with silesia, braid reinforcing inside waist. Handsewn.

PRODUCTION

Notes

This day dress has been professionally made, featuring high quality finish and detail. The inside is skilfully sewn, with overstitched seams, gauging and lining beautifully fitted. In addition, the costume displays the attention to detail and consistency of decorative device which indicates the work of a professional. This bodice is unusual in having only one centre front bone. The lines of the bodice emphasise the low pointed waistline. Boning was usually placed on the bodice seams to make them less visible.

HISTORY

Notes

This evening dress was donated to the museum in 1981 and is part of the Anne Schofield collection, which includes a number of colonial costumes.

SOURCE

Credit Line

Gift of Anne Schofield, 1983

Acquisition Date

12 November 1981

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