POWERHOUSE COLLECTION

Palempore, India, ca 1810

Object No. A10591

This palampore, a cotton coverlet or hanging, was block printed, hand painted and mordant dyed on natural cotton on the Coromandel Coast of eastern India in about 1810. It is an expressive example of the many palampores produced in India for the European market, and reflects a mixing of traditional Indian and European styles. The design features a large flowering 'tree of life' motif, a hybrid form of Persian and Chinese origin and characteristic of these textiles, while the floral garlands and bows in the border reflect the European classical style of the late 1700s and early 1800s. The striking influence of the latter indicates a strong desire in the Indian makers to appeal to European tastes. From the 1600s, the increasing prosperity of the European middle classes enabled greater and more selective spending on household furnishings, as determined by prevailing fashion and taste. At that time, India dominated the world market as a producer and exporter of textiles, and the Indian mordant-dyed and hand-painted cotton fabrics known as 'chintz' were greatly admired for their brilliant colours. Indian dyes, unlike those in contemporary European and English fabrics, were wonderfully fast. Chintz was a vital commodity in the British East India Company's trade network. In the early 1600s the company traded Indian chintz in what are now the Indonesian islands to obtain much sought-after spices, but by the mid 1600s direct trade in these lovely textiles was established between India and England. Design modifications however, as can be seen in this palampore, were encouraged to ensure they would satisfy European tastes and complement European interiors. Christina Sumner May 2018