Chanel suit, with 'Black Opal' lining by Jenny Kee
Object No. 99/6/25
Jenny Kee collection of clothing, textiles, artwork and archive, Australia/England/Japan/Africa/USA 1967-1995 Jenny Kee (born Sydney 1947) is one of Australia's most important designers, best known for designing and retailing a unique range of colourful clothing and knitwear. One major theme links all aspects of this collection, Jenny Kee's love of Australia's unique natural environment. Her garments are a canvas for her artwork featuring images of native flora and fauna, the opal gem stone and urban icons like the Sydney Harbour Bridge and Opera House. The Jenny Kee collection and archive was acquired by the museum in 1998 and 1999. They document the evolution of her clothing and textile designs, the creative process behind her designs, the development and management of her retail outlets Flamingo Park and Jenny Kee, the significant role she played in environmental activism in Australia and her public profile as a celebrity artist with-in the advertising industry. The collection and archive document her life and work over twenty years and includes clothing and textiles by Jenny Kee as well as Kee's business partner Linda Jackson (b. 1950), original artwork for many of Kee's designs, business records, newspaper and magazine clippings, videos of parades, parade invitations, props and programmes, shop mannequins, shop signs, scrapbooks and posters. The collection and archive not only records Jenny Kee's life and work, but also can be read as a document that charts important cultural changes in Australia. Kee was born in Bondi, to a Cantonese businessman father and Italian/British mother. An early newspaper clipping shows her modelling as the face of Canadian Airlines. In the 1960s, she, like many other young Australians, spent several years enjoying the creative atmosphere of 'Swinging London'. She returned to Australia in the early 1970s and attracted by the encouraging cultural climate of the new Whitlam led Labor government, decided to stay. Kee then opened her Flamingo Park' 'frock salon' in the Strand Arcade in Sydney selling her own designs as well as the work of other innovative designers like Linda Jackson, Peter Tully (1947-1992) and David McDiarmid (1952-1995). Many of the pieces sold through the shop are included in the collection as well as signage, programmes and videos of the lively parades she and Linda Jackson produced. The collection preserves a unique record of this important designer's personal and professional career from the 1960s through to 1995.
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Summary
Object Statement
Suit, womens, linen / silk, designed by Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel, 'Black Opal' print designed by Jenny Kee and made by Rainbow Fabrics, France / Australia / Italy, 1983
Physical Description
Womens black and white houndstooth suit comprising jacket, skirt and top. Jacket: short, tailored, boxy jacket made of black and white houndstooth linen. The jacket has a V-neck with flat collar and peaked lapels showing the lining, there are long straight sleeves with cuffs fastening with two gold metallic Chanel logo buttons. The jacket has a patch pockets at left and right front at waist level, these have turn down tops revealing colour printed lining. Attached along the inside hem is a gold metallic chain. The jacket is machine sewn and fully lined with printed silk in 'Black opal' design. Centre front opening fastens with two Chanel logo buttons. Skirt: slim fitting, knee length skirt made of the same fabric as the jacket. It is a wrap around style in two parts, left and right side crossing over centre front and centre back, thus forming splits at these areas from the hem. The front opening fastens at the waist with two metal hooks and eyes. The skirt is machine sewn and fully lined with same printed fabric. Top: loose fitting, sleeveless top with V-neck and tucks down left and right front and back made of the 'Black opal' silk. It is machine sewn and unlined.
PRODUCTION
Notes
The 'Black Opal' fabric is designed by Jenny Kee in Australia and the suit is designed by Karl Langerfeld for Chanel in France. Jenny Kee met Karl Lagerfeld through her friends Vern Lambert and Anna Piaggi. Lagerfeld was very impressed with the way Kee was dressed. He would have also seen her work in Vanity Fair magazine and Vern Lambert may have taken him some samples of Kee's work. When she returned to Australia, Kee received a call from Fabio of Rainbow Fabrics, asking if Lagerfeld could have permission to use her Opal Print in his first collection for Chanel. She was thrilled and gave her permission. However, she did not seek payment for the use of her design. Kee was supposed to recieve a handbag and shoes from Lagerfeld, made up in her fabric, but they never arrived. Kee found this suit in a second-hand shop in New York. The fabric was printed by Rainbow Fabrics in Italy and the suit was made by Chanel in France. This suit was made in 1983.
SOURCE
Credit Line
Purchased 1999
Acquisition Date
3 February 1999
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