POWERHOUSE COLLECTION

Woollen cape from Turkey

Object No. 96/398/1

Cape, embroidered with silver thread, wool, maker unknown, Turkey, 1850-1920

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Summary

Physical Description

Cape fashioned from a circle of brushed woollen fabric of the palest eau-de-nil (blue/green), opening at the front, with a high collar, fastened beneath the collar with a rolled thread button and loop. Various designs have been embroidered in silver thread, on the front and back of the cape. The embroidered motifs on the front are symmetrically arranged around the opening. Beneath the collar, two crescent moons are stitched. A spectacular design incorporating stylised leaves, botehs, flowers and scrolls has been embroidered (couched) either side of the bottom of the opening. More designs (incorporating the same stylised forms) have been embroidered on the back, lower sides and shoulders of the cape, the design on the back running from the collar to the hem of the garment. The collar is also heavily embroidered. The whole garment has been edged with silver thread, an edge border formed by a finer line of stitching, surmounted by circles in a 'keyhole' design.

DIMENSIONS

Height

540 mm

Width

990 mm

PRODUCTION

Notes

The circular shape of this cape, its upstanding collar and use of rolled thread for buttons are reminiscent of a 'cap', or woman's mantle, in the Albanian style. The embroidery of the cape is typical of Turkish work. More commonly worked using gold thread, the technique was known as 'dival', and is found on jackets, coats and waistcoats. A similarly decorated waistcoat is in the Embroiderer's Guild Collection, Hampton Court, England. It is described as having been made in a workshop for export to France. Described by Margaret Taylor as Edwardian.

HISTORY

Notes

The cape had a silk lining, which has been removed. Bought by Margaret Taylor in London, England, in the 1950s or 1960s.

SOURCE

Credit Line

Gift of Margaret Taylor, 1996

Acquisition Date

16 December 1996

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