Set of ceremonial regalia and shell money from Admirality Islands
Object No. 94/21/1
This nine-piece ceremonial regalia is an exceptionally fine and well-preserved example of Admiralty Islands weaving and beading. While individual pieces can often be found in public and private collections, a near or complete set, like this, is very rare. The type of ceremony this regalia would have been worn at is a marriage, dance/festival or initiation ceremony; the type requiring an impressive display of wealth. Thought to have been predominantly worn by men, women may have also worn the outfit as part of their wedding dowry; the apron being displayed over a grass skirt and the arm and leg bands tied with the tassels appearing at the front of the body. Unfortunately, however, no images are known to exist depicting either a man or a woman wearing this complete set. The display of shell money and dog teeth in costume and dress was restricted to ceremonies. Shell money comprises the upper section of small conus shells sourced from either Ponam or Sori (islands off the north coast of Manus) and was traded throughout the rest of the Admiralties. They were drilled in the centre and woven onto a pandanus or bark backing. The top of the apron was also originally decorated with colourful parrot feathers in red, yellow and orange. References: Truus Daalder (2009) "Ethnic Jewellery and Adornment", Adelaide, pp.127-128, 138, figs. 204 & 206 Robert D. Mitton (1979) "The People of Manus", Records of the National Museum and Art Gallery Roger Neich & Fuli Pereira (2004) "Pacific Jewelry and Adornment", Honolulu, pp.90-96 Sylvia Ohnemus (1998) "An Ethnology of the Admiralty Islanders - The Alfred Bühler Collection, Museum der Kulturen, Basel", Bathurst, pp.62, 79-81, 100-102, 104-105, 112-113, 123 Sotheby's Fine Tribal Art auction catalogue, Sydney, Sunday 28th November 1993
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Summary
Object Statement
Ceremonial regalia, including, apron, belt, leg bands (2), arm bands (2) and bracelets (3), pandanus leaves / bark / shell / glass / cotton / natural fibres / textiles, maker unknown, made in Manus Island, Admiralty Islands, Papua New Guinea, 1900-1925
Physical Description
Nine piece ceremonial regalia assemblage comprising an apron, waist band, beaded cuffs (3), leg and arm bands (2 pairs) decorated with geometric beading formed through threading and knotting small white shell discs and miniature red, blue, black and white glass trade beads onto vegetable fibre yarns and bark. (-1 Apron) A fringed and beaded rectangular panel, slightly tapered at the waist. The upper woven pandanus fibre waist band has a plain diagonal weave and fringed top edge, the slightly narrower woven fibre band below is decorated with two rows of small cowrie shells (some with a mud coating). The lower beaded panel is worked with four vertical bands of shell discs threaded with chevron stripes in black (shell) and red or blue and red (glass) beads. These alternate with narrower diaper patterned bands of blue and white glass beads. The lower edge is fringed and threaded with fine shell discs, large blue glass beads and two crescent shaped beads carved from seeds. Long tassels made from two different vegetable fibres are attached to each beaded fringe. (-2 Belt) Narrow beaded waist band worked in red, white, blue and black glass beads. The whole of the lower edge is decorated with tassels made from strips of cotton trade cloth. Plaited vegetable fibre ties, with tassels (two are missing), form the method of securing the belt around the waist. (-3 and -4) A pair of wide, rectangular 'mats' (worn as leg bands) worked in red, white, blue and black glass beads. Fastening is by plaited vegetable fibre ties (seven on each side - one is missing) trimmed with tassels made from strips of cotton trade cloth. (-5 and -6) Pair of arm bands, one of which has two surviving fibre ties; the other is missing them altogether. (-7 to -9) Beaded cuffs (3) of different sizes worked in red, white and blue glass beads laced and backed onto rigid, circular bark strips.
PRODUCTION
Notes
Each of the pieces forming this ceremonial regalia are decorated with geometric motifs formed through threading and knotting white shell discs and red, white and blue beads onto vegetable fibre yarns. The three cuffs are backed onto bark. The glass beads are imported; while red as a naturally occurring pigment is widely used in local art, blue is a colour introduced by Europeans.
HISTORY
Notes
The Admiralty Islands comprise the westernmost group of the Bismarck Archipelago, which also includes New Britain and New Ireland, and politically form part of Papua New Guinea. Regalia, such as this, was worn at important ceremonies as expressions of wealth and status, typically weddings and men's and women's initiation. This ceremonial regalia was purchased at auction in 1993 from the collection of Peter Hallinan. It was originally acquired in 1925 by Daniel Leighton Patterson, who was sent with the Expropriation Board of Australia to New Guinea to take over from the German administration following the annexation of the territory by Australia.
SOURCE
Credit Line
Purchased 1994
Acquisition Date
24 January 1994
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