POWERHOUSE COLLECTION

Sleeveless fitted coat from Central Serbia

Object No. 89/743

Coat, womens, velvet / gold metal braid and cord/ cotton, maker unknown, Central Serbia, 1880-1920

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Summary

Physical Description

Woman's sleeveless fitted coat with widely flared skirt and floating 'false sleeves' attached at shoulders. Maroon velvet, lined with yellow/pink/purple striped and printed cotton cloth; appliqued gold metal braid and cord on front and side panels, gold metal ribbon braid around all edges and diagonally on skirt back. Worn for special occasions. Central Serbia, Yugoslavia. Coat, velvet/gold embroidery/braid, Yugoslavia, 1880-1920

PRODUCTION

Notes

In the Balkans, the Ottoman empire limited the influence of western European fashion. Turkish styles of the 18th and 19th centuries reigned, especially among the army, rich urban mercantile classes and courtiers of Wallachia, Serbia, Macedonia, Albania and Greece. This tendency is particularly evident in the many variants of long and short jackets, made of fine English broadcloth or velvet. These jackets were heavily trimmed with couched embroidery in silver and gilt, with knotted buttons studded with coral and turquoise. The type of embroidery worked on this garment was characteristic of the work of professional embroiderers in the Balkans and throughout the Ottoman Empire.

HISTORY

Notes

Jackets such as these were worn by men and women. A very similar example in the Royal Ontario Museum is described as having been a woman's festive jacket. Bought by the donor, Mrs A. Marcovitch, in Yugoslavia in about 1930.

SOURCE

Credit Line

Gift of Mrs A Marcovitch, 1989

Acquisition Date

22 August 1989

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